A highly original take on Grolleau Gris, a pink-skinned mutation of Grolleau Noir, most widely known for making rosé. Here the grapes have been direct-pressed to make a compelling ‘blanc de noir’. A hazy shade of sunset in the glass, the wine pairs ripe, tropical fruit, sea salt and stones to brilliant effect, making for a formidable apéritif. The label proudly states ‘only the dead fish swim with the current’, so it is no surprise that Baptiste’s take on Grolleau Gris is one that goes against the grain, and is an exciting example of what happens when you do so. Fresh, textured, hazy and pure. A wine of real curiosity, falling somewhere in-between the white and rosé world.

Made with grapes from 30-year-old vines planted over clay and limestone in the outskirts of the Anjou villiage, Martigné-Briand. The grapes are direct-pressed into 3000-litre conical oak vats where fermentation takes place before being transferred into large fibre-glass tanks. Pure and nourishing, a wonderful expression of the lesser-known grape.